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Entries from January 1, 2011 - January 31, 2011

Monday
Jan102011

Flash in the Panera: A Sweet Sampling of Panera Bread Baked Goods

So, a few weeks ago Panera Bread emails me and says "would you like to be part of our blog program? We'll pay you." Well, you know, in so many words. 

Turns out, they wanted to pay me to eat their baked goods. Now, I would have eaten baked goods without being paid, but money is cool. Plus, I'd been curious, anyway-- they just opened a retail location a few short blocks from my store, and I had never tried their baked goods.

So, Mr. Spy and myself made a trip to the new Panera Bread location on Broadway in Seattle, and sampled some of the goods. 

First: the French Toast Breakfast sandwich, because, well, how could we not? Sort of a breakfast version of the Krispy Kreme burger made famous by Paula Deen, this delightfully unhealthy breakfast nicely mixed savory (eggs, cheese, and, if you want it, sausage) by sandwiching it with sweet. Though technically it was served on a bagel, I would like to assure you that this bagel was really, really close to its pastry re-assignment as a doughnut, what with its lightly sweet, soft interior, studded with raisins, and its gentle, sweet glaze of cinnamon and sugar on the crispy, grilled exterior.

Second: The "Cobblestone" sweet roll (pictured top) which was sort of like the muffin love child of Monkey Bread, Coffee Cake and a Cinnamon roll--and I mean that as a compliment. Made up of "Cinnamon Raisin bread dough mixed with chunks of apples and spices, topped with streusel and white icing", I'd have to say that if you are what you eat, you're living large when you eat this baby. 

Third: After taking a break to digest, we tried out the Mint Crinkle cookie, which is new on their menu. Once again, a sweet sort of fusion was going on here: it had the texture of a molasses cookie, but the flavor of a rich, fudgy chocolate crackle cookie mixed with a Thin Mint. And this is a very, very winning combination. 

Moreover, I have to say I was pretty impressed by Panera Bread--their menu is interesting, their baked goods are alluringly displayed when you walk into their cafe, and--most importantly--the sweets tasted good. I'd go again, even if I weren't being paid.

To find a location close to you, visit panerabread.com; follow them on Twitter here, and find them on Facebook here.

Monday
Jan102011

Bred and Butter: A Sweet Visit to Bredenbeck's, Chestnut Hill, Philadelphia

How does this sound to you: a banana pound cake cupcake, covered in peanut butter mousse frosting, topped with salted peanuts, a wedge of peanut butter cookie, and drizzled with honey?

Well, this cupcake--the "Elvis"--was as delicious as it sounds, and it was just one of many delectable items obtained at Chestnut Hill's Bredenbeck's Bakery.

Now, as you probably aready know, CakeSpy has had a bakery crush on this place for the longest time--recipes for ghost cupcakes and dude-friendly beer and chip cupcakes have been featured on the site. So it was an absolute joy to visit the actual bakery--open in Philadelphia since 1889 --in person and sample some of their sweets for ourselves.

Other than aforementioned Elvis Cupcake, what did we sample? So glad you asked.

We tried a bit of their seasonal Eggnog ice cream--similarly deliciously decadent.

After that, why not follow up with a seasonal sugar cookie (but obviously a  2 and 0, because seriously, the 1s looked like they had far less surface area). Buttery. Sugary. Good.

We finished with one of their slices of buttery pound cake. Simply awesome.

Of course, due to limited time, some of the things that sadly were not sampled included:

The "Chestut Hill" Torte (a sort of rich chocolatey confection);

...or the cannoli, brownies, or other delicious looking cakes.

But there's always something for next time, right?

Totally worth a visit: this bakery was chock-full of unfussy, but totally buttery, baked goods that will make you smile.

Bredenbeck's Bakery and Ice Cream Parlor, Philadelphia; online at bredenbecks.com.

Bredenbeck's Bakery & Ice Cream Parlor on Urbanspoon

Sunday
Jan092011

Biscuit Time: Biscuits from Both Ways Cafe, Seattle WA

Basically all reviews will point you to the same summary of Both Ways Cafe: breakfast good, lunch meh. But whatever you do, you must order the biscuits.

I don't have to be told twice to order biscuits.

At Both Ways, they serve tall, flaky biscuits which are crispy on the outside, and soft on the inside. The overall size is generous, but not intimidating, as an accompaniment to breakfast. As a minor pet peeve, the biscuit was served at room temperature with chilled butter (if I am allowed to nitpick for a moment, if the biscuit is at room temperature, the butter ought to be too, to spread more easily; or, the biscuit ought to be slightly warmed so that the butter will melt). However, if the biscuit is going along with breakfast, this is a minor inconvenience--simply top it with a small bit of hot omelette and the butter melts beautifully. 

But if you want a sweet experience, butter your biscuit and spoon on a dollop of the jam waiting on each table--you'll be rewarded with a simple, but totally sweet, biscuit experience. Aforementioned crispy edge gives way to a soft interior, which is gorgeous with a slather of butter and smear of sweet jam. It is the type of thing that transports you to a simpler time, even if you've never technically known a simpler time, while eating it.

Of course, biscuits like these do go stale quickly, so for the best experience, be sure to go fairly early (or just be slightly more forgiving, the way you would with a croissant eaten after 10am. You totally know what I mean, don't pretend you don't). Of course, the bakery case does boast a bevy of other homemade sweets to sample if the biscuits are all gone.

Biscuits from Both Ways Cafe, 4922 S. Genessee Way, Seattle.

Both Ways Catering Co. on Urbanspoon

Sunday
Jan092011

Batter Chatter: Interview with Esa Yonn-Brown of Butter Love Bake Shop

Sometimes you discover great bakers in the most unexpected places. For instance: recently I got to talking to Liz, violinist in Mr. CakeSpy's band Exohxo, and she casually mentions that her childhood pen pal Esa Yonn-Brown not only makes the most amazing baked goods, but she owns a Butter Love Bakeshop (best name ever!), a pie-making business in San Francisco, featuring such alluring pies as the Pear Crisp Pie, "One Bite Wonder" mini pies, Irish Coffee Cream Pie, and a signature "Butter Pie". Well, I demanded an introduction on the spot, and thanks to the magic of Facebook, it happened soon after. Want to know more of Esa's story? Here you go:

CakeSpy: Tell me your first pie memory.

Esa Yonn-Brown: I don't recall the day that the photo was taken that appears on the front of my website (picture left) but as you can see I grew up around pie from the time I could wield a butter knife, so pie it's self is embedded in many of my memories. The most comforting memory I have that surrounds pie is that of my mom in the kitchen in the very early morning singing while I still lay in my bed before school. She would sing while she rolled out the butter studded dough and filled rounds with potatoes, meat and vegetables. I remember her telling me as I got on the school bus to hold my lunch bag opened on my lap until my empanadas cooled or they would steam up and get soggy. I also remember all the kids on the bus asking me what I had because that buttery smell filled the cabin of the stale smelling bus.

CS: What do you think are some contributing factors to the current "pie renaissance"?

EYB: I think people are looking for comfort these days and pie, to many people, is the essence of comfort. Pie evokes memories of moms in the kitchen, something homemade and simple, and is warm and full of love. It is not pretentious but can be elegant in it's core which is appealing in a time that is so full of unknowns.

CS: Please, tell me more about your signature "Butter Pie". What is it, where did it come from, why should we love it?

EYB: The Butter Pie is a take on the traditional Canadian Butter Tart. I was trying to think of a signature pie when I was getting started that was both unique, butter related, and addictivly good. This pie ended up fitting the bill. Plus I wanted the signature pie to be something I could make year round so it would not rely on seasonality.

CS: A lot of people are VERY scared of pie crust. Any tips or suggested tools to make it slightly less scary?

EYB: Practice and cold butter. There are all sort of tricks out there but really if you want to make a truly good all butter crust it is difficult and requires practice. Once you get it it is not hard to do at all, but it is a delicate balance between cold ingredients, not over working the dough, and making sure not to add too much water which will all result in a tough crust. People should not be scared to try to make an all butter crust, the flavor will be there no matter what and after a few tries they will figure out the balance involved.

CS: Also RE: pie crust--butter, shortening, lard, or a mixture?

EYB: Butter all the way! Shortening has no flavor at all, but is much easier to work with. I have not tried lard and would be interested to experiment but I love the flavor that butter provides. Butter also offers a tenderness that is not achievable with shortening, and if you master it can have the crisp flaky texture that shortening provides.

CS: What is your favorite type of holiday pie?

EYB: It may be boring to some but I really think a traditional apple pie still slightly warm with some vanilla ice cream or generous helping of just whipped above weeping cream, with a touch of vanilla and lightly sweetened couldn't be better for the holidays.

CS: New Year's Eve is over, but next time I'm celebrating, what kind of pie do you think would go well with champagne?

EYB: I personally love champagne and think pear pie would be lovely as well as a rich chocolate tart.

Discover Butter Love Bakeshop via Facebook, follow them on Twitter, or learn more at butterlovebakeshop.com.

Friday
Jan072011

Sweet Excess: The Exquisite Pleasure of Eating the Pumpple from Flying Monkey Patisserie, Philadelphia

Pie? Cake? Why decide, when you can eat two kinds of each, plus a 3-inch slab of buttercream frosting, all at once?

That's right: it's time for me to tell you about the exquisite pleasure that was ordering and eating the Pumpple, by far and away the single most calorie-dense offering at Philadelphia's Flying Monkey Patisserie.

But first, a 411. Per this article on MSNBC:

While the turducken, a chicken stuffed into a duck stuffed into a turkey, once seemed over-the-top, the pumpple cake is even more decadent. One Philadelphia bakery dreamed up this ultimate fall dessert: pumpkin and apple pies baked in chocolate and vanilla cake, fused together and surrounded by buttercream icing.

This oversize creation weighs in at a whopping 15 pounds and measures more than a foot tall. And at 1,800 calories a slice, it's not for the faint of heart.

And when a couple of spies--a buddy and myself--found ourselves wandering around Philadelphia's Reading Terminal Market a week or so ago, you'd better believe we made a beeline to Flying Monkey for a slice of this sweet manna.

Now, this cake is not cheap. It's $8 a slice. But the purchase price is practically worth it for the pomp and circumstance of serving a slice all alone. Here's what you can expect if you decide to make the investment:

The first thing you'll notice as you come up to the bakery case is that this cake is huge. It's over a foot tall--just think about that. This means that if you were standing next to it, it would probably come closer to the height of your knee than the height of your ankle. 

The next thing is that it's heavy. This was clear by the way the employee braced herself to hoist the cake up to the counter to cut and serve. Over 15 pounds--that's a lot of cake, friends.

Once sitting at counter level, a big knife-slash-mini machete will be taken out to cut your slice. First, they will score the cake into marked-out slices.

Since the cake is kept cold (they recommend letting it sit at room temperature for 30 minutes before eating), they will run a mini blowtorch over the knife (the kind used for creme brulee) to warm it so that it can cleanly and smoothly cut through the mass of cake.

They will repeat the torching to cut the other side of your wedge, and then they will delicately extract it and place it in a box, if you're taking it to go. This takeaway box is about the size of one that you'd get for an entire Chinese takeaway meal, by the way.

Now, you could wait half an hour to dig in, as they suggest. But when faced with the heady scent of buttercream, our resistance was futile--we grabbed some forks right away for a taste.

Sometimes, when a dessert like this exists, it's more for the shock value, and can disappoint in the taste department. But not this cake.

Every element could have stood on its own--moist, rich, flavorful cakes giving decadent, buttery pies a bear hug, and every last inch of it enveloped in a buttery frosting swaddling. 

After our few initial bites, we hit the road, walking around Philadelphia clutching our takeaway container with the care that one might assign a newborn baby...a newborn baby that you occasionally pause to take bites of, that is.

Furtive forkfuls were eaten at random all around town, and somehow, by the next morning, waking up in our hotel, this is all that was left. Now, this cake was advertised as serving four per slice, so I suppose I'm equal parts ashamed and proud to show you this.

In the morning light, it seemed like it could have been a mistake. But oh, it felt so right the night before.

Want a slice of this pie-and-cake mashup? You can get it at Philadelphia's Flying Monkey Patisserie; find them online here, and check 'em out on Twitter here.

Friday
Jan072011

Toast of the Town: French Toast from Who's On Third, Spring Lake, NJ

Submitted for your approval: French Toast, made using French Bread, from Who's On Third in Spring Lake, New Jersey.

Who's On Third is one of those establishments that straddles the middle ground between diner and casual restaurant (people from NJ will know what I mean). It's not fancy, but they have a pretty big menu, and offer pretty big portions. That's not for nothing.

But when it comes to French Toast, they have an intriguing entry on their menu. There is a particularly flowery description of their French Toast made using crusty French bread, dipped in egg batter, and served with syrup, butter, and confectioners' sugar.

And then, below that description, it notes that, if desired, the dish is also available with non-French bread. But really, it is written as sort of verbal sneer, like why would you ever do that?

Well, this spy crew will never know, because Danny ordered it the right way: made using French Bread. Served up in several buttery, battered-up, crispy-on-the-outside, custardy-on-the-inside coins of carbohydrate, this dish was a gorgeous gut-bumb and the perfect way to start a snowy New Jersey day.

Overall thoughts: worth trying if you're in Spring Lake, and a good warm-up to the delicious offerings down the street at Scone Pony.

Who's on Third, 1300 3rd Ave., Spring Lake, NJ.

Who's On Third on Urbanspoon

Friday
Jan072011

Baker's Dozen: A Batch of Reasons to Love "Killer Pies" by Stephanie Anderson

Hey, sweeties. Remember how I won that Chronicle Books Happy Haul-Idays contest? Well, I'm happy to say I've been receiving my $500 worth of books a little at a time, and have been more overjoyed with each addition to my cookbook collection.

But my current favorite of the batch has to be Killer Pies: Delicious Recipes from North America's Favorite Restaurants by Stephanie Anderson. Published in 2007, this book features pie recipes and lore from all around the US and Canada, and makes for some deliciously fascinating reading. But don't just take my word for it: here's a baker's dozen of my favorite bits from the book: 

  1. Another explanation for the name "Shoofly Pie" from The Famous Dutch Restaurant, Frackville, PA: I had always thought the story behind the pie's name was due to the fact that it was so sweet that the baker had to "shoo" flies away from the rich, gooey filling; however, as I learned from this eatery's entry, which includes a recipe for "Wet-Bottom Shoofly Pie" (I know, take up the name with them), there is another theory, which I also love: "others claim that shoofly is a corruption of the French word for cauliflower ("chou-fleur"), as the crumbly top slightly resembles the vegetable". 
  2. Before I Die, I Must Eat Fudge Pie from Ed & Kay's, Benton, Arkansas: Upon reading the entry about this eatery, I had a sudden and massive urge to take a road trip to AR for a sample of their "cinnamon rolls the size of dinner plates" and for the fudge pie, made with a decadent, pecan-chocolate filling, for which there is a recipe in the book, adapted from a customer who shared the recipe with co-owner Kay Diemer.
  3. Top of to-do List, Lynden Dutch Bakery, Lynden, WA: For shame: this place is located in the very state I live, and yet I've never heard of it. "Downtown Lynden, in fact, could be renamed Little Holland. Many of the townspeople speak Dutch...Lynden Dutch Bakery owners Steve and Rise Copeman whip up homemade cookies, wedding cakes, pastries, breads, and pies with that special Dutch touch. Sour cream raisin pie is a favorite." And there's a recipe for it in the book!
  4. There is an actual place called Pie Town in New Mexico: Wait. Hold! The! Phone! There is a place called Pie Town!? Why don't I live there? Oh, and there's a pretty spectacular-sounding recipe from The Daily Pie Cafe, from said town, for New Mexican Apple Pie, which contains green chiles!
  5. Manitoba Maple-Walnut Pie: Doesn't the name just send a shiver of happiness down your spine? This sweet treat is a specialty at Just Desserts Cafe in Winnipeg, Manitoba (that's Canada, in case you didn't know), which specializes in "sweets that are rich and sinful, as the best ones always are." This one combines maple syrup, brown sugar, chocolate, and walnuts for a treat that is making me want to rush north of the border!
  6. Bob Andy Pie from Dangerously Delicious Pies, Baltimore, MD: I don't know why this pie is called the "Bob Andy", but I do know that as soon as I read the description from owner Rodney Henry (a pie-maker and tattooed rock-star), who called it a "white trash creme brulee", I knew I had to try it. Basically a simple custard pie, here is my attempt!
  7. Poogan's Porch is a Porch I want to visit: Located at 72 Queen Street, Charleston, SC's Poogan's Porch boasts not only a ghost (a former resident of the building, Zoe St. Amand, a spinster schoolteacher) but also a fantastic spin on the classic pecan pie: something beautiful and glorious called the Kalua Pecan Pie. "A kick of coffee flavor to complement the rich nuts" sounds pretty nice to me!
  8. A perfect-pie crust tip from a professional: Nicole Anhalt, pastry chef at aforementionedPoogan's Porch, also offers a valuable tip for perfect pie crust (a tip specific to her unbaked-shell pecan pie, but I believe it could be used for other recipes which call for an unbaked pie shell): Just before you begin to make the filling, place the pie shell in the freezer. when you're finished, pull the shell out of the freezer and add the pecans and filling. The almost-frozen shell will result in a flakier crust."
  9. Saskatoon Pie, the existence of, and a recipe for: Apparently, there is a berry native to Canada called the Saskatoon Berry. While I've never tried this berry, I'm already pretty sure that its best use is in pie form, and the entry for Black Cat Guest Ranch in Hinton, Alberta, includes a wonderful-sounding recipe, which includes saskatoon berries (described as small, purple berries which have a subtle berry-almond flavor), juice, and spices sandwiched between a rich double crust.
  10. Ohio's Oldest Hotel Makes Delicious Pie: Under the entry for The Golden Lamb, noted as being "Ohio's Oldest Hotel", from Lebanon, OH, there is a recipe for "Sister Lizzie's Shaker Sugar Pie", a "staple" pie, so called because it has ingredients likely to be found in any pantry.
  11. Crystal Lake, it's Not Just for Friday the 13th Fans: Apparently there is a reason to go to Crystal Lake, IL, other than the fact that it has the same name as the campgrounds in the Friday the 13th movies. That reason is pie, specifically apple pie, which can be found very deliciously atAround The Clock Restaurant & Bakery.
  12. Grapes, They're Not Just For Wine: You heard me. Grapes are apparently for pie, too. Case in point: the Concord Grape Pie of Arbor Hill Winery of Naples, New York. Boozeless but bountifully buttery and delicious, the book has a recipe for this pie, which is known to locals as "famous Naples grape pie". Fascinated? Me too.
  13. A Shout-out to The Little Pie Company: During and after college, when I lived in NYC and worked at a rubber stamp store, one of my favorite customers (who had us make custom rubber stamps with their logo) was Little Pie Company. And in this book, you can find their decadently delicious recipe for deep-dish, old fashioned apple pie. Awesome!

 You should really buy the book. Do that here.

Thursday
Jan062011

Cake Byte: Chimney Cakes Opens in Chicago

Images from the Chimney Island Yelp pageHow to stay warm during the cold Chicago winter? Well. You could hunker down by a fireplace...or you could hit up newly-opened Chimney Cake Island!

Per CakeSpy reader Amy:

A bakery selling something called 'chimney cakes' opened up around the corner from me recently. Chimney Cake Island. I couldn't find any mention of the chimney cake on your site so I thought I'd pass the word along. Apparently chimney cakes are Romanian (?). I plan to stop into the shop this weekend.

Well, Amy, you are right about the cakes being associated with Eastern Europe. As I found out on that handy-dandy site Wikipedia,

Kürtőskalács or kürtős kalács is a Hungarian pastry also known as chimney cake or stove cake or Hungarian wedding cake. It is baked on a tapered cylindrical spit over an open fire. Originally from Transylvania, it is famous as Hungary's oldest pastry. Kürtőskalács is sold in bakeries, pastry shops and even street vendors are selling them on street corners, carnivals and fairs.

Kürtőskalács consists of a thin yeast pastry ribbon wound around a wooden cylinder, heavily sprinkled with sugar, thus becoming a helix shaped cylindrical pastry or a pastry roll that sometimes tapers very slightly towards the end. The pastry is baked on a hand-turned, tapered, wooden spit, rolled slowly on the wooden cylinder above an open fire. The dough is yeast-raised, flavored with sweet spices, the most common being cinnamon, topped with walnuts or almonds, and sugar. The sugar is caramelized on the kürtöskalács surface, creating a sweet, crispy crust.

In Chicago? Please report back with your thoughts on this intriguing new bakery! Find them online at chimneycakeisland.com!

Thursday
Jan062011

Cake Byte: Cake Pops by Stick & Pop, NYC

Cake Pop Wants to know where its face went.Dear Stick&Pop,

I don't want to be to forward, because I just met you, but I think I love you. But no, I don't want to break up my marriage. Because you see, Mr. CakeSpy loves you too.

What we propose is that you leave NYC and move to Seattle, live in our spare bedroom, and instead of paying rent, give us an endless supply of your delicious cake pops.

Please, consider it.

Love, 

CakeSpy&Co.

- - - - - - - -

OK, so the preceding is a slight dramatization of actual events. We haven't invited the owners of Stick & Pop to live with us--yet.

But after each bite of their delicious pops, we're coming closer and closer. Not convinced? Well, read their bio and you might come a few steps closer:

French Culinary Institute graduate, Jacki Caponigro, and design professional, Christy Nyberg, launched Stick&Pop in New York in the Fall of this year. The pair has crafted a menu of 12 delightfully creative flavors that are as fun to look at as they are enjoyable to eat.

The eye-catching flavor, Darling (marble cake dipped in white chocolate and covered in sugar sprinkles), made a splash as The Savoy Hotel re-opened in New York—the treats were covered in gold and silver sprinkles to announce the occasion.

The diversity of flavors on the menu though, show that Stick&Pop is not relying on the novelty of a new “food-on-a-stick” but instead putting flavor and creativity at the helm. Johnny Cakes, for example, is peanut butter cake dipped in dark chocolate covered in pretzel and sea-salt and Griswald is essentially a S’more on a stick.

These cake pops are hands down some of the best I've ever tasted. The interior cake is decadently moist and buttery, and the candy coating is firm but not to the point of cracking and hurting the roof of your mouth--and each is so adorably decorated that you can't help but fall in love a little bit, just looking at the packaging.

Favorites so far? The "Darling" (marble cake, rolled in white chocolate and coated in sprinkles); the "Birthday Cake" (buttery cake coated in dark chocolate, with sprinkles); and of course, the "Johnnycake" (peanut butter cake coated in dark chocolate, with pretzel coating).

Seriously, I don't know what else to say other than these pops are a good investment. Lucky you if you live in NYC and can access them easily; even if you're not, they're worth the splurge for a special event.

Find out more at stickandpop.com.

Thursday
Jan062011

Sweetie Pie: CakeSpy Loves High 5 Pie and a Butter Love T Shirt Giveaway

Guess what, sweeties?

At long last, High 5 Pie has opened its retail operation in Seattle, on 12th and Madison. Which, not that you asked, but is right along my usual route from home to the store each day. You know what that means: CakeSpy's gonna be high on pie forever!

Now, I was pretty primed to love this bakery. After all, I've been a big fan of their pies (previously primarily found at owner Dani Cone's Fuel Coffee locations) for a long time.

Aaaand (full disclosure) I was a consultant for some recipes on their menu, which has expanded with the new retail operation (fun game: to to the bakery, and guess which flavors I helped develop). High 5!

But upon visiting on New Year's Day with Mr. Spy--our first official bakery visit of the year!--we were even more impressed than we expected.

Here are just a few reasons you should love the new High 5 Pie retail location:

 

  • The pies are delicious. They come by the slice, in mini pie form, in hand pie ("Flipside") form, or as pie fries! And since they sneak crack into the pie crust, you bet your bottom dollar it's good.
  • They serve them a la mode, if you'd like, with Bluebird Ice Cream.
  • The space itself is beautiful, with a slightly more minty green version of Tiffany blue used all over the place--on the custom espresso machine, on the signage, you name it.
  • But of course, they still maintain some secrets.
  • And they have delicious cookies (and biscuits, and a few other items in addition to pies...including a nice variety of gluten-free and vegan items)
  • ...and they have this t-shirt. BUTTER! LOVE!

 

Now, here's the thing. I bought this t-shirt, in Unisex Small, but as it turns out, your dear Spy is smaller than small, and it doesn't quite fit.

This is good news for you though, because I'm doing a giveaway! Even if unisex small isn't your size, I'm sure you can find a willing recipient for this BUTTER LOVE tee.

Want to enter? Simply leave a comment below, telling me what flavor of pie you favor best. The giveaway will close on Thursday, January 13, at noon PST; one winner will be chosen at random. US and Canadian entrants only, please.

For immediate pie gratification, visit high5pie.com.

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