L'Operation: Learning to Love (and Make) the Opera Cake
Wednesday, May 28, 2008 
L'Opéra (Opera Cake), like its namesake, is a pinkies-out affair: deeply layered, intricate--and a huge time commitment. With multiple alternating layers of ganache, buttercream and sponge cake, it's certainly not a light dessert, but when done well, it is indeed a delicious one. And this month, it was the Daring Bakers Challenge (a challenge dedicated to Winos & Foodies). Though it was specified that the cake ought to be light in flavor, we felt that in our case this would be a cheat--aren't you supposed to learn the rules before you break them? While the original thought was to make the classic Opera Cake and then another variation afterward, perhaps we didn't know what we were getting ourselves into in terms of time and effort--and well, let's just say only one cake was made, and in perhaps reverse Cakespy behavior, our classic Opera Cake is decidedly non-mischievous, and in doing so we actually ended up breaking the rules. Oh, the shame! (Though, to see some beautifully creative entries that did follow the rules, visit here).
But happily for us spies, all of those between-step moments gave us time to reflect on L'Opéra and its grandeur, as well as recall some of the slices we've known and loved in the past--because although making an opera cake is a major feat and ultimately tastes crazy-delicious, one thing that we've learned from the arduous process of making it is that sometimes it's just better to have it already made for you--simply so you don't have to wait.The classic Opera Cake is a work in six acts. There are three thin layers of almond cake, each soaked in a potent coffee syrup; a layer of espresso-flavored buttercream; one layer of bittersweet chocolate ganache; and a topping of chocolate glaze. Traditionally, the cake is decorated with its name written in glaze across the top and finished with a piece of shimmering gold leaf.
Opera Cake's Origins:
"L'Opera" is said to have made its grand debut in the early 1900s in Paris at the Exposition Culinaire. It was introduced by Louis Clichy, which is why the cake may be referred to as Gâteau Clichy. It wasn't until many years later, when Parisian pâtisserie Dalloyau reintroduced the cake as "L'Opera," (after the Paris Grand Opera), that it became immortal. And really, as the Balduccis description says, "The name makes sense, as the cake is comprised of several layers, similar to 'acts' in an operatic presentation."
Some Great Opera Cakes (made by other people):
We'll defer once more to Dorie Greenspan, who says, "The greatest Opera Cake is made at Dalloyau. There, executive pastry chef Pascal Niau makes a cake as sleek and smooth as an opera stage and as gloriously delicious as La Boheme is affectingly beautiful."
Though--alas--we haven't had the pleasure of tasting aforementioned Opera Cake, we do recall where we first were acquainted with the sweet. It was in Paris, at a pâtisserie in the the Saxe-Breteuil Market with a red awning, although we we cannot recall the name of this spot of sweet awakening.
In New York, we were delighted by L'Opéra at Tisserie (857 Broadway; online at tisserie.com) which was rich, smooth, and layered in rich flavor, but we absolutely swooned over the version at La Bergamote (169 9th Ave b/t 19th St & 20th Sts; 212- 627-9010).
In Portland, OR, one of our spies fell en amour with the Opera Cake at Ken's Artisan Bakery: it was somehow rich but not heavy, silky-smooth, and we loved the handwriting on top (hey, details matter!) -- (338 NW 21st St.; online at kensartisan.com).
In Seattle, our hearts belong to Belle Epicurean; their "Opera Slice" is made with almond Jaconde sponge cake, layered with espresso buttercream and Frangelico ganache--which is to say, it's nutty, rich, and completely decadent (1206 4th Ave.; online at belleepicurean.com).
In San Francisco, our spies have been wowed by the Opera Cake at Tartine. It's true, everyone loves this place, and with with good reason: their opera cake is chocolate-y, rich, and gorgeously smooth (600 Guerrero St. at 18th Street; online at tartinebakery.com).
daring baker, french pastry
Reader Comments (55)
Bonnie: Thanks!
Glamah: Thanks a lot, glad you enjoyed!
Asha: Ha! They all look yummy too!
Ricki: Thanks, I rather like the traditional one myself.
Dana: hahaha, thanks! Glad you enjoyed the little diva!
Aran: Oooh, confessions of a pastry chef, I love it!
EB: Thanks! She's probably going to throw a fit behind the curtains though.
LyB: Thanks! It was tasty!
Jennifer: Thanks so much!
Obsessive Foodie: you didn't get it? I sent it in the mail last week. Maybe your mailman ate it?
Rainbow: Thanks!!
Zen Chef: yea! Let us know what you think!
Dolores: Oh my. You must try l'original!
E.A. Thanks! It does look good doesn't it?
Porterhouse: Ha, you made me laugh! Maybe those other ones should be..I don't know...musical theatre? I'd eat any of them gladly of course. There were some seriously goodlookin' ones!
Grace: So true, pinkies out as a way of life it is!
Kim: Glad you enjoyed!
Clumbsy: Thanks so much!
C.L. We love fat cupcakes and educating, so this is high praise!
Shari: Glad you enjoyed!
Marias: Thanks! Glad you liked it!
Louise, Thanks so much! As someone else who is interested in the story behind the baked good I appreciate it!
Housewife: Thank you!
TNS: Thank you, you're too sweet!
Half baked: Wouldn't you just like a chunk? I think I have a little left...
Rosie: Thanks!
Amy: Delicious and cute!
Anne-Marie: yes!! You should try the Belle Epicurean one next time you're in town. It's downtown, by the Central Library.
Veggiegirl: Thanks! Glad you enjoyed!
Lina: Thank you, you're sweet!
Amy: Merci beaucoup!
Diva: Thanks a lot!
Christina: Thank you! I think reading burns calories, not as many as running though.
Ruth: Ha! Glad you enjoyed our cheating.
Recipegirl: Mmm, giant snickers bar (enters into dream sequence)
Rural Vegan: Thanks so much! Glad you enjoyed!
Sweet tooth: So true, that's life!
Hannah: you're too sweet. Your cake was totally bitchin'! (both of 'em)!
Mischa: I have never been! it's another one of the Gumshoes that loves theirs. I need to go!
Giz: Woot! I'll come and do a mural!
Molly: Woo! Yay for breaking the rules!
Anali: YEAH, it's a lot of work. LOT of time too. But so delicious!
Amanda: To be quite honest ours did get a bit soggy the next day. Which further supports our view that Opera is probably best when made by someone else, who is more talented than us. I'd say you'd be safe at a nice place ordering it.
Chou: Like duh! Everything's better with a viking helmet--just ask Natalie at Bake and Destroy! She's the viking helmet queen!
TW: So true. It's a labor of love, and is eaten too soon. Alas!
Jade: Ha! Yes, we are cheaters. I like white chocolate, but not on cake! I must admit.
Gloria: Thanks!
Claire: Ha! yes, we did reverse rule-breaking!
Jeanna: Thanks! 20lb, that's a record!
Dhanggit: Thanks!! Glad you enjoyed!
Do you have a slice left over for me???
ooh, notice how the opera cake kinda resembles the Nanaimo bar? I wonder if I could do a multiple layer Nanaimo bar.
I'm having Opera cake at my Portland wedding, and though I had Ken's Artisan Bakery's version, I found an at-home chef who was willing to make me a two-tiered (stacked) round version with poured dark chocolate ganache over the top. We went to her house for our tasting; she served us huge slices of the cake that she had just created before we got there! She is also going to incorporate a roasted pistachio praline into the inner layer of ganache (my idea) for a bit of crunch, and then finish the whole thing off with gold luster dust and gold beads. The cake alone is reason enough to get married!
It would be great to see you do a post on the Amelie, another French dessert. Pix Patisserie over here makes a fine Amelie, indeed. I think I've had it four times now, and I can never order anything else from them.
Nice post!
Adeleine
Adeline, it sounds like it's gonna be one heck of a wedding! YUM! And the tasting sounds like it was an extremely delicious experience. As for the Amelie--intriguing!! Stay tuned, we always love learning more about baked goods!!